Baytril dosage for ducks with bumblefoot

joesandy1822 · Jul 5, 2022

My duck had surgery 8 days ago for a huge bumblefoot. I do not have access to a farm animal vet, so a respected “regular” vet did it. He prescribed Baytril in pill form for 10 days. Tomorrow will be her last day. I would like to verify with anybody here who is familiar that the dose has been correct. I read in a book that I purchased (recommended here) not to give antibiotics past about 7-10 days or it could cause yeast problems and/or sour crop. I sure don’t need anything more to be treating.

Last night upon doing our daily cleaning and bandaging, we realized the scab around the edges was loose in places, so we started peeling it off. There was a lot of cheese like, semi-hard pus (we think). I don’t know if that was active infection, old pus, or whatever. But anything that came away easily, we took out. Now I’m wondering if the Baytril should be extended. I’m not sure if the vet only excised the middle of the scab or what, but he definitely didn’t remove the entire scab. I will include a photo from before surgery, one from Sunday night, as well as one from last night (Monday) after we debrided the scab.

The form she has been on is called Baytril 20 (22.7 mg tabs). She is a jumbo Pekin. I have not weighed her, but I’m assuming the vet did. I’m wondering if this dosage is acceptable, and if anybody thinks the oral antibiotic should be extended? I am so hoping this has not gotten into her bones (osteomyelitis).

Quatie · Jul 5, 2022

joesandy1822 said:
Unfortunately, the vet had a serious family emergency and is in and out. He’s also a 90-minute drive one way, and because Baytril has been officially banned by the FDA in poultry, he almost didn’t prescribe it. I had to make that drive again just to pick it up a few days after surgery. He said I could never eat her eggs again. Plus, quite honestly I’m hesitant to prolong the antibiotics in fear of causing other issues (sour crop, yeast).

We are packing it each night with an antibiotic ointment that the vet prescribed, and thankfully I bought an extra tube on my last trip. I also bought regular triple antibiotic ointment for when that runs out. We also spray with Vetericyn. And I bought a bunch of vet wrap because we couldn’t find duck shoes readily available to fit. One place has a year long waiting list. The other place never returned my call. So I’m going to Joann today and buy wetsuit fabric (neoprene) and my son and I are going to make our own. We both sew, and he’s an engineer. He can come up with a pattern.

Thank again for the input!

The FDA banned it because they don't want antibiotic resistant bacteria. Baytril is very close to another antibiotic used in humans, so they want to reduce it. This is more aimed at commercial farmers. Unfortunately it is a really highly effective drug, and others don't necessarily work. A lot of vets still prescribe it because of how effective it is.

As for the eggs, the vet has to say that you can't eat the eggs any more. He is trying to be a good and proper vet, which is respectable. However, after a couple weeks from the ducks last dose, there is no longer any trace of antibiotics in the eggs. Some wait a month to be sure. If you want to eat the eggs at that point, it's fine. If you still don't want to, that is fine as well.

Good luck with making the duck shoes. Sounds like you have a great plan for them.

Quatie · Monday at 9:43 PM

joesandy1822 said:
Well, before I saw your reply, we did her care for the evening. That yellow, squishy area had us both concerned, so we peeled off the scab and picked around in the yellowish area. A bunch of it pulled out very easily, like dead flesh. I’m assuming healed tissue wouldn’t just come off so easily? I don’t know. I feel like we just start over every time we open it up again, but if that WAS dead tissue or hardened pus, it needed to come out, correct? There is a literal hole, about 1/2” deep, where some of the yellow stuff came out of. Some of it was closer to the surface. We irrigated it very thoroughly with peroxide, then saline, then sprayed with Vetericyn, and finally we filled the hole as best we could with the antibiotic ointment the vet prescribed. Wrapped it with gauze, and put a clean bootie back on for the night.

Would it be better if we actually packed the hole with gauze along with the ointment? That way the hole will stay open while it heals from the inside out? I just don’t know why it keeps filling/covering back up with what seems like dead tissue or pus. At least there was minimal bleeding. I just feel like the more times we keep digging around in there, the more chance that we will introduce more bacteria, even though we are careful. There is no bad smell, and she tolerates it pretty well. She is acting normal and happy. How, I don’t know.

Here is a link to this evening’s findings.

I feel like I should order some liquid Baytril and get her back on it. That hole is so deep, how can it not be clear to the bone?! But I fear giving her sour crop or a yeast infection. I read in this book I got that you don’t want them on an antibiotic for more than 5 days. She already did a 10-day course, but I think the dose maybe was not correct. Anybody have any input regarding this?

Thanks so much!

So I am not seeing any infected like tissue in there. It looks like tissue trying to heal on the top. I just don't see necrotic tissue. I am going to tag @Miss Lydia for a second opinion. She may not respond till the morning.

There is definitely a risk with continually opening it and reinfecting it. You do not want stick gauze in the hole. The gauze will end up having the tissue form to it. Going back to vet could also be worthwhile and having the vet take a second look at it. In person, the vet is going to know healthy tissue from not and if it still infected. Having someone in person is always the best.

That mass is not really going to necessarily go down. My Pekin has a lump on her foot that is permanent and will never go away. It is just excess tissue that grew around the infection.

If it is orally it is usually administered at a higher dosage and for 5 -7 days. I have seen other vets administer it for 10+ days on the site.

I have seen @Isaac 0 on recently. Maybe he will see this. He is one of the most knowledgeable people about ducks on this site. He is the most likely to be able to give you the answers you seek.

Miss Lydia · Tuesday at 5:59 AM

I would be soaking her foot or feet daily in warm Epsom salt water. I say both because I use a bucket and I it’s easier to put both feet in hold onto the duck and let them soak for as long as they will tolerate it. You don’t want her drinking the water it has a laxative effect. But it’s so good for inflammation and swelling. Then spray with Veterycin. I have a hen inside my house right now treating for bumble. I started outside with treating and wrapping but the wound was staying moist so I had to bring her inside where she wouldn’t have to be wrapped and the bumble is drying and healing. It’s going on 2 weeks of having her inside. So if you can keep her on clean bedding or pee pads and let the foot stay with out wrapping it may heal quicker. Some times you do have to go back in more than once when working on these bumbles. And it can take a while for the trauma of being opened and dug into to settle down. I did have my hen on a 5 day course of Baytril.

Isaac 0 · Tuesday at 6:12 AM

I would personally leave the wound alone.
Soaking, applying ointments, and bandaging the foot are all conducive to healing and should still be done.
However, continuing to excavate tissue from the wound may lead to further contamination, and interruption of the healing process. At this point it appears to be doing well, but If at any point you notice discharge, potent smell, swelling, or anything alarming I would suspect the wound is infected. Antibiotics would be necessary to penetrate deep into the tissue.

joesandy1822 said:
but I think the dose maybe was not correct

Do you happen to remember the dose?

Quatie · Thursday at 7:16 PM

joesandy1822 said:
Wouldn’t this technically still be “orally”? It’s going into her mouth, not being administered with a needle. Not trying to argue, just learning. I just thought it might be easier since she’s all about food, but I’ll do whatever is necessary and best. Thanks again for your support!

Sorry if it came off like I was trying to argue, it was not my intention. You can try the bread. I have just never done it that way, so I am not the best person to recommend an alternative method.

Quatie · Jul 5, 2022

The dosage I use is 5mg per lb, two times a day for 5 days. The dosage you are using is likely half that, so maybe using it for 10 days would be similar. I don't know in that regards. Usually when I treat with baytril the infected area goes from hard to more squishy and soft.

I would definitely pack the wound with antibiotic ointment like @Aunt Angus mentioned. You can also contact your vet and maybe you need another antibiotic. Just because it works well for most bumblefoot, it is always possible you have one that has an an antibiotic resistance to it. Or the vet may offer a higher dosage. It is worth at least talking to them about it.

Also I highly recommend getting some duck booties. It helps a ton with the healing process. I held off getting them for a long time, and finally did because my ducks upper foot area was getting irritated from the vet wrap. The tissue healed so much faster when I switched.

joesandy1822 · Jul 5, 2022

Quatie said:
The dosage I use is 5mg per lb, two times a day for 5 days. The dosage you are using is likely half that, so maybe using it for 10 days would be similar. I don't know in that regards. Usually when I treat with baytril the infected area goes from hard to more squishy and soft.

I would definitely pack the wound with antibiotic ointment like @Aunt Angus mentioned. You can also contact your vet and maybe you need another antibiotic. Just because it works well for most bumblefoot, it is always possible you have one that has an an antibiotic resistance to it. Or the vet may offer a higher dosage. It is worth at least talking to them about it.

Also I highly recommend getting some duck booties. It helps a ton with the healing process. I held off getting them for a long time, and finally did because my ducks upper foot area was getting irritated from the vet wrap. The tissue healed so much faster when I

Quatie said:
The dosage I use is 5mg per lb, two times a day for 5 days. The dosage you are using is likely half that, so maybe using it for 10 days would be similar. I don't know in that regards. Usually when I treat with baytril the infected area goes from hard to more squishy and soft.

I would definitely pack the wound with antibiotic ointment like @Aunt Angus mentioned. You can also contact your vet and maybe you need another antibiotic. Just because it works well for most bumblefoot, it is always possible you have one that has an an antibiotic resistance to it. Or the vet may offer a higher dosage. It is worth at least talking to them about it.

Also I highly recommend getting some duck booties. It helps a ton with the healing process. I held off getting them for a long time, and finally did because my ducks upper foot area was getting irritated from the vet wrap. The tissue healed so much faster when I switched.

Unfortunately, the vet had a serious family emergency and is in and out. He’s also a 90-minute drive one way, and because Baytril has been officially banned by the FDA in poultry, he almost didn’t prescribe it. I had to make that drive again just to pick it up a few days after surgery. He said I could never eat her eggs again. Plus, quite honestly I’m hesitant to prolong the antibiotics in fear of causing other issues (sour crop, yeast).

We are packing it each night with an antibiotic ointment that the vet prescribed, and thankfully I bought an extra tube on my last trip. I also bought regular triple antibiotic ointment for when that runs out. We also spray with Vetericyn. And I bought a bunch of vet wrap because we couldn’t find duck shoes readily available to fit. One place has a year long waiting list. The other place never returned my call. So I’m going to Joann today and buy wetsuit fabric (neoprene) and my son and I are going to make our own. We both sew, and he’s an engineer. He can come up with a pattern.

Thank again for the input!

Aunt Angus · Jul 5, 2022

Just FYI, you can get Baytril without a prescription.

https://allbirdproducts.com/products/baytril-10

Quatie · Jul 5, 2022

joesandy1822 said:
Thank you! Yes, I was aware I could get the liquid form with a prescription. However, they recommend to dose it in their water as their ONLY source of drinking water. My problem is that I cannot separate my two ducks for 10 days, and I don’t want the other duck to drink medicated water.

I use it with my ducks, but I never put in the water. I give it orally with a syringe. If you ever need to use it in the future, the dosage is 0.05ml /lb twice a day for 5-7 days, which is the same as the 5mg / lb.

Baytril dosage for ducks with bumblefoot

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