Integrating chicks with grown birds

MrsTamiLynn · Jun 18, 2022

Agathe said:
My 4 week old chicks have moved into the coop where they will be living with my existing flock. They are currently inside a rabbit cage in the coop, so no physical contact between them. The initial reaction of the hens over the newcomers were just curiosity, one even seemed a bit jumpy. They now seem to pay no special attention to them. I'm nervous about letting them out in a week or so. Any advice for when I do? I have no idea about the disposition of my hens as I haven't introduced them to new birds before, but the bossy ones can sure be bossy. My plan is to let the chicks out of the cage after a week and then let them be out, with places to hide inside and outside. Supervised to start off with of course. Is it better to do shorter supervised sessions? At what point should I intervene? I am hoping that their initial reactions to seeing the new birds is telling for how it will go, but I'm not so sure that is the case...

You can introduce the chicks into the flock at 14-15 weeks or when they are similar in size. Otherwise, they will not stand a chance against the adults. The adults will absolutely kill them. You always want to introduce at least 2 or 3 as well. The adult chickens see anything outside of their own flock as a threat.

You can take them out for the adults to get used to them but you will have to keep them separated with some chicken wire, etc. and under full supervision starting at 10-12 weeks. Not only do you have to worry about the chickens but hawks, & cats as well. They are very vulnerable when they're small.

My husband & I use to do this for about 30 minutes a day from 10-14 or even 15 weeks.

At 14 to 15 weeks or whenever they were similar in size we introduced them in the middle of the night. We snuck them into the coop and placed them on the perch next to the chickens. Chickens have hard time seeing at night so we figured that this was the safest option & it was the best option in my opinion. We've done it 2 or 3 different times & we've had no problems whatsoever.

I've had chickens for 7 yrs & my husband for 15. If you have any questions don't be afraid to ask!

Agathe · Jun 18, 2022

I realise there are different opinions on the matter, but I've personally read several times that it can be easier to integrate at 4-6 weeks than when they are older because the little ones will more likely submit to the large birds and aren't as much of a threat. I do have a spare coop/run that I can put them into if everything goes wrong, because the rabbit cage won't be large enough for them to live in until 3 months. But I would prefer not to take that detour.

I have 4 chicks and 5 hens. The coop isn't as large as one of you have, I'm not sure really how large, but I plan on leaving the current chick feed station because it is in feeding situations that the bossy girls are the bossiest. I would have preferred to move the chicks into the coop at earlier than 4 weeks, but had to wait due to the weather. I could leave them in the cage for 2 weeks if that helps, but I don't want to wait until they are older than 6 weeks. The run is large and they can also free range if that is of any help. I'm also able to split the run in two separate areas. I don't have a separate door to let them go in and out of the run on their own, but I could take them out in a separated place and let them explore on their own before integration if that is useful.

So I'm wondering more what I can expect of behaviour from the big girls with 5-6 week old chicks who've they've become used to seeing and when to intervene. I know I can expect head pecks, but I also know a head peck can be serious if leading to wounds. If it doesn't work out, I have the possibility for other setups, but I would prefer not to.

Agathe · Jun 18, 2022

Just clicked on some of the posted links and saw dog cages used with bits of cardboard to make small doors for the chicks. I'm thinking I can do something similar. Sadly, the rabbit cage door is a whole side, so I can't remove bits and pieces, but the whole side will come off. So I'm thinking that I'll construct something out of cardboard and make window areas in plastic or chicken wire. That way when I do let them out, they can choose to go back in and out of the cage until they feel safe. So they can sleep and eat in the cage. I had thought I'd have to remove the cage entirely because if its construction.

rosemarythyme · Jun 19, 2022

Agathe said:
Just clicked on some of the posted links and saw dog cages used with bits of cardboard to make small doors for the chicks. I'm thinking I can do something similar. Sadly, the rabbit cage door is a whole side, so I can't remove bits and pieces, but the whole side will come off. So I'm thinking that I'll construct something out of cardboard and make window areas in plastic or chicken wire. That way when I do let them out, they can choose to go back in and out of the cage until they feel safe. So they can sleep and eat in the cage. I had thought I'd have to remove the cage entirely because if its construction.

If the rabbit cage you're using is a typical hutch style, doing something like this may work better for "chick openings."

The chicks can enter/exit on either side using the gap behind the wire. I teach mine to use these openings by chasing them in and out of the brooder a few times, and after that I can allow them full access to the run (and adult flock).

I do supervise early interactions between chicks and adults but by the time the chick doors come into play (when chicks are around 2 weeks old), they've already interacted several times and I'm satisfied that they're safe enough with access to these openings and the general clutter in the run/coop.

Agathe · Jun 19, 2022

rosemarythyme said:
If the rabbit cage you're using is a typical hutch style, doing something like this may work better for "chick openings."
View attachment 3154350

View attachment 3154351

The chicks can enter/exit on either side using the gap behind the wire. I teach mine to use these openings by chasing them in and out of the brooder a few times, and after that I can allow them full access to the run (and adult flock).

I do supervise early interactions between chicks and adults but by the time the chick doors come into play (when chicks are around 2 weeks old), they've already interacted several times and I'm satisfied that they're safe enough with access to these openings and the general clutter in the run/coop.

Thanks! I discovered that I can hinge off the door and slide it to the side. It will allow for a small opening on one side, big enough for them to get in and out of. It will be better than the cardboard as they can see each other to the same degree as they do now.

Would you share a little more about how you do supervised interactions? I know a single peck can be fatal, so I'm worried about catching them soon enough if trouble occurs, even if I'm right next to them. I've bonded rabbits before and although rabbits are nothing like chickens, I do have some idea about dealing with animals that need special setups in order for them to not simply kill each other.

aart · Jun 19, 2022

Agathe said:
it can be easier to integrate at 4-6 weeks than when they are older because the little ones will more likely submit to the large birds and aren't as much of a threat.

Exactly.
Plus they are fast small targets and hard to catch, provided they have safe places 'hide' and to shelter when needed.

Ridgerunner · Jun 19, 2022

Agathe said:
So I'm wondering more what I can expect of behaviour from the big girls with 5-6 week old chicks who've they've become used to seeing and when to intervene. I know I can expect head pecks, but I also know a head peck can be serious if leading to wounds.

To me, when to intervene is when a chicken is standing over another chicken and pecking at it. That means the one is not trying to run away and the other is trying to kill it.

It sounds like you have room, especially when you say they can free range. Free ranging would help, the more room the better. But a run can maybe work. I don't mean a run with a certain number of square feet per chicken, I mean a run where the chicks can run away from the adults if they need to and big enough so they can avoid them.

My suggestion is to house them where you want them to sleep at night for a week or so. That way they should return there so you can lock them up at night, safe from predators. You will get some benefit from the chickens getting used to each other but to me the big benefit is being able to easily lock them up at night from predators. Then after a week or so, open the brooder door.

The behavior I'd expect to see from the juveniles is that they will explore their new surroundings. I've had some broods where every one was on the ground outside of the brooder within 15 minutes. I've had broods where it took some a full two days before they built up the courage to go explore. Each chick is an individual, each brood has its own dynamics. I let them work that out according to their own personalities.

The behavior I'd expect from the adults is initial curiosity. If you house them where they can see each other they can easily get past this phase before you let the chicks out. Other than that they will probably ignore the chicks.

At some point the chicks will invade the personal space of an adult. They will probably get pecked and run away. Mine quickly learn to avoid the personal space of the adults. If you have the room to allow this to happen you are pretty much done. If they are squeezed into a space where they can't run away or can't avoid it can be a lot harder. That's where we use tricks like that safe haven concept.

Yes, it is possible a chick can be seriously injured by a peck, especially to the head. It is possible you will have a fender bender the next time you drive to anywhere. A piece of space junk could fallout of the sky and hit your house. It might rain where you are today. Some things are more likely than others. I consider it highly unlikely a chick will be injured or killed by a single peck if it can run away. None of mine have been yet. If they don't have the room to run away or avoid it is a different story.

It is possible one of your adults is an absolute brute when it comes to chicks, they can go out of their way to seek out and destroy, even with a lot of room. I've never seen this behavior in my flock but some people I trust on here say they have. The less room they have to run away and avoid the more likely you are to see this behavior. This is why you observe, it can happen. It doesn't always happen.

You've bonded rabbits. I'm sure you have certain techniques you use. Did every bonding go exactly the same or were some easier or harder than others? I can't give you any guarantees about the behavior of any living animal, practically anything can happen. But I think you are in a good place and will be surprised at how easy this is for you if you can use all that space.

Good luck.

Agathe · Jun 19, 2022

Ridgerunner said:
To me, when to intervene is when a chicken is standing over another chicken and pecking at it. That means the one is not trying to run away and the other is trying to kill it.

It sounds like you have room, especially when you say they can free range. Free ranging would help, the more room the better. But a run can maybe work. I don't mean a run with a certain number of square feet per chicken, I mean a run where the chicks can run away from the adults if they need to and big enough so they can avoid them.

My suggestion is to house them where you want them to sleep at night for a week or so. That way they should return there so you can lock them up at night, safe from predators. You will get some benefit from the chickens getting used to each other but to me the big benefit is being able to easily lock them up at night from predators. Then after a week or so, open the brooder door.

The behavior I'd expect to see from the juveniles is that they will explore their new surroundings. I've had some broods where every one was on the ground outside of the brooder within 15 minutes. I've had broods where it took some a full two days before they built up the courage to go explore. Each chick is an individual, each brood has its own dynamics. I let them work that out according to their own personalities.

The behavior I'd expect from the adults is initial curiosity. If you house them where they can see each other they can easily get past this phase before you let the chicks out. Other than that they will probably ignore the chicks.

At some point the chicks will invade the personal space of an adult. They will probably get pecked and run away. Mine quickly learn to avoid the personal space of the adults. If you have the room to allow this to happen you are pretty much done. If they are squeezed into a space where they can't run away or can't avoid it can be a lot harder. That's where we use tricks like that safe haven concept.

Yes, it is possible a chick can be seriously injured by a peck, especially to the head. It is possible you will have a fender bender the next time you drive to anywhere. A piece of space junk could fallout of the sky and hit your house. It might rain where you are today. Some things are more likely than others. I consider it highly unlikely a chick will be injured or killed by a single peck if it can run away. None of mine have been yet. If they don't have the room to run away or avoid it is a different story.

It is possible one of your adults is an absolute brute when it comes to chicks, they can go out of their way to seek out and destroy, even with a lot of room. I've never seen this behavior in my flock but some people I trust on here say they have. The less room they have to run away and avoid the more likely you are to see this behavior. This is why you observe, it can happen. It doesn't always happen.

You've bonded rabbits. I'm sure you have certain techniques you use. Did every bonding go exactly the same or were some easier or harder than others? I can't give you any guarantees about the behavior of any living animal, practically anything can happen. But I think you are in a good place and will be surprised at how easy this is for you if you can use all that space.

Good luck.

Thank you for a very thorough answer, it is just the thing that will help me along! I've just not really been sure what to expect. I know no one can predict how things will go, but it certainly helps having some experience, which I don't.

rosemarythyme · Jun 19, 2022

Agathe said:
Would you share a little more about how you do supervised interactions? I know a single peck can be fatal, so I'm worried about catching them soon enough if trouble occurs, even if I'm right next to them.

Generally speaking, a peck or two won't do anything to a chick (exception would probably be Silkies with vaulted skulls since their brains are sitting up with less protection). I've even seen a hen pick up and throw a chick, and the chick simply ran away and actively avoided the hen from that point on.

What I mainly look for during those first few supervised sessions is 1) do the chicks respond appropriately to hens - do they run away, seek higher ground? and 2) are any hens actively looking to go after chicks that aren't in their personal space (about 5-6' diameter)? As long as I see chicks seeking cover as needed, and hens not going out of their way to chase (and so far even the biggest bully hens I've had won't bother to try and chase a chick down), then I can relax.

More about my set up and integration approach: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/short-on-time-recycle-a-prefab-brooder.73985/

Agathe · Jun 20, 2022

rosemarythyme said:
Generally speaking, a peck or two won't do anything to a chick (exception would probably be Silkies with vaulted skulls since their brains are sitting up with less protection). I've even seen a hen pick up and throw a chick, and the chick simply ran away and actively avoided the hen from that point on.

What I mainly look for during those first few supervised sessions is 1) do the chicks respond appropriately to hens - do they run away, seek higher ground? and 2) are any hens actively looking to go after chicks that aren't in their personal space (about 5-6' diameter)? As long as I see chicks seeking cover as needed, and hens not going out of their way to chase (and so far even the biggest bully hens I've had won't bother to try and chase a chick down), then I can relax.

More about my set up and integration approach: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/short-on-time-recycle-a-prefab-brooder.73985/

Thank you so much, this helps a lot! I've just seen some horrible photos in Facebook groups of wounded chicks, but it may be chicks that have just been put in there with no forewarning.

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